Priming just means feeding your yeast again while it’s in the bottle to generate the co2 to make my beer bubbly as well as delicious. The simplest food for yeast is some sort of sugar, and the most common, in my experience, are:
Corn Sugar (Dextrose)
DME (Dry Malt Extract)
You can go to any homebrew forum, blog or book and see that other options include table sugar, honey, molasses, maple syrup, fresh wort, partially fermented beer (Krausening), agave nectar and just about any other form of sugar out there. And on some of the forums, arguments break out about the fineness of carbonation bubbles and smoothness of head.
Maybe I’ll do a batch and carbonate some with table sugar, some with dextrose, some with DME and some with honey. I am not a fluid dynamics specialist, but I do not thing co2 creates different sized, yet still invisible bubbles in solution. I think there are other factors that come in to play.
My guess right now is that since DME has some unfermentables still in it, it may build up the body of the beer. Since corn sugar ferments out (nearly) completely, it doesn’t contribute anything to the body.
I chose to use DME from the get-go. I didn’t do that for any reason I found on forums or in books. I did it because on of the people I share my beer with is allergic to corn. He is sensitive enough he got hives after drinking New Glarus’ Fat Squirrel.
Looking back, I enjoy the symmetry of using DME to prime by homebrew. A fellow homebrewer commented he liked the idea of DME for priming because you’re just putting beer into beer. I couldn’t have said it better myself.
Read Part 1 & Part 2 about what this experiment is all about.
Dry Hop Day
An essential part of the flavor of Janet’s Brown Ale is the dry hopping. Several ounces of hop pellets are added once the primary fermentation is completed, which adds a substantial hop flavor and aroma with minimal bitterness.
Here's our big batch of Janet's Brown bubbling away in the freezer. You can see the temperature control probe by the growler.
The beer fermented in Andy’s temperature-controlled chest freezer to maintain a steady temperature. This uses a standard chest freezer with an external thermostat to control the temperature maintained in the freezer.
After allowing the beer to ferment happily for a week and a half, Andy and I got together to add the dry hops. Following Andy’s normal technique, we sanitized a few hop bags, added the hops and dropped them into the fermenter.
Once the deed was done, several beers aided our recovery from the strenuous five minutes measuring, then carrying several ounces from the upstairs to the downstairs(there were two whole flights of stairs!). Arrangements were made for bottling day one week later.
Looking at the forecast for Saturday, May 26, 2012, I thought it looked like a good day to brew. Thunderstorms, windy and cloudy weather seems like the perfect time to play with fire & propane, right? Right. That’s what I thought.
The brew day was somewhat spur-of-the-moment. I’ve been drooling about recreating my imperial California Common, and also making another Kolsch. But I didn’t have those yeasts on hand, so I decided on a porter. Dark beers are a favorite of my father-in-law, and I love ’em too. Since it was Memorial Day weekend and he’s a Veteran, I brewed the porter in honor of his service.
Crushed Grain for 12 gallon batch
Grain Bill:
9.0 kg Pale Malt
680 grams Chocolate Malt
450 grams Crystal 80
450 grams Black Patent malt
324 grams Crystal 40
51 grams Roast Barley
Hops:
US Goldings, 4.5% 78 grams @ 60 minutes
US Goldings, 4.5% AA 78 grams @ 10 minutes
Target OG: 1.053
Yeast: Safale S-04
Fermentation temperature approximately 68 degrees Fahrenheit.
I was focused on using ingredients I had on hand, so I couldn’t make any of the recipes I found online or in my brewing books. I took a little inspiration from several recipes and combined them into this monstrosity. They hydrometer sample tasted pretty good, so I have high hopes.
I mashed in with 10 gallons to hold a temperature of 150 degrees Fahrenheit for about an hour. While the grains were mashing, I headed inside and got my fermenter cleaned and sanitized and got my auto-siphone, tubing and airlock soaking in the sanitizer solution.
The first runnings had the color and appearance of thin, used motor oil, but clean. They looked thick and nearly opaque, but appeared brilliantly clear.
You need a big burner to boil over 10 gallons of wort
As soon as the first runnings were drained, I fired up the burner to get the boil going. I stirred up the batch sparge and let it sit for 15 minutes and added it to the kettle.
The second runnings had the appearance of strong coffee. Jet black, but light could pass through. I wound up with just over 13 gallons going into the brew kettle.
As my wort was coming up to boil, clouds rolled up the Chippewa River valley where we live. By the time I reached a boil rain was falling and lightning was flaring close enough to affect the lighting in my garage.
It was dark enough for the rest of the brew I needed to use a flashlight to see into the kettle to tell if the boil was still good. My propane tank nearly ran out, but at least it was warm enough to keep it from freezing up.
If every brew day this year ends with a rainstorm, it’s going to be a long year. My wife said we may have to invest in a pop-up shelter so I can stay dry without brewing in the garage.
When I put in the 10 minute hops, I added my wort chiller to sanitize it and waited for the boil to complete. It took about 15 minutes to drop the temperature from boiling to 68 degrees Fahrenheit. There was much stirring involved to help circulate the wort close to the chiller.
I had boiled water earlier, cooled it and used it to rehydrate two packets of Safale S-04 yeast. I pitched the yeast into my fermenter and racked the beer on top of it. All I can say is, “I love my half-inch Auto-Siphon. I almost wish I would have broken my old one sooner.” I just got the half-incher before the Big Brew because I broke my original when I was trying to separate the tubing from the cane portion. Siphoning goes so much faster with the half-inch than with the 5/16. Upgrade now. You won’t regret it.
Just over ten gallons of porter bubbling away
I had everything cleaned up by 7PM. By the time I woke up Sunday morning, the yeast was already getting busy. There was a steady stream of bubbles, and by lunchtime there was sanitizer foam coming through the top of the airlock it was bubbling so furiously.
Now comes the waiting. My least favorite part. I hope to bottle sometime mid-June, so I should have a fully carbonated report by July.
Priming just means feeding your yeast again while it’s in the bottle to generate the co2 to make my beer bubbly as well as delicious. The simplest food for yeast is some sort of sugar, and the most common, in my experience, are:
